Whale Watching, Research and Questioning the Ethics of How We Interact With Wildlife
A trip to experience the wildlife of the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park.
The salt water of the St. Lawrence Estuary sprays me as I lean my camera over the side of the zodiac boat scanning the large expanse of salt water over my left shoulder. A loud wet exhale breaks the monotonous rumble of the boat’s motor and the sound of crashing waves. I scan the waves for the source of noise, hardly able to contain my excitement enough to hold my camera steady. I turn the focus ring on my lens and suddenly a large figure in the water comes clearly into focus.
The dark dorsal fin of a beautiful minke whale breaches the surface, emerging from below the waves to round its large body and make its way back into the deep waters below. I can feel my heartbeat intensify as I snap a few shots, hopeful they turn out. The boat begins to slow down. Everyone on board fights for a view as the last trace of the minke whale disappears with a majestic dive back into the St. Lawrence River.
Off the coast of the small town of Tadoussac, Québec the freshwater of the great lakes and Saguenay River converge with the salty waters of the Atlantic Ocean creating an ideal feeding ground for Earth’s biggest creatures. Whales flock to these waters in large numbers to take advantage of the exemplary conditions. Unbeknownst to them, they bring researchers, naturalists and tourists to these shores as well.
Tadoussac is home to the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre where researchers from the Group for Research and Education on Marine Mammals (GREMM) showcase exhibitions and informative displays on whales. Crosières AML, a company providing whale watching tours, can be found across the parking lot. Whales are the focus of this small community. It’s one of the best locations to see them on the planetThe conditions caused by the convergence of the fresh and saltwater forms a prime habitat for species at the bottom of the aquatic food chain. A phenomenon known as upwelling occurs here where cold, nutrient-rich water from deep below the surface rises up to stimulate the growth and reproduction of zooplankton. These small aquatic organisms are initiators in a complex food chain where fish, birds and whales can feed in abundance.
As passengers on the zodiac boat, my fiancée and I are only able to see the ecosystem’s magic that occurs above the waves. Our hopes are high to see dorsal fins, the flick of gigantic tails and if we’re exceptionally lucky, a whale completely breaching the water.
The boat heads towards the narrow yet deep waters of the Saguenay Fjord, an expansive 105 kilometres of inland sea in the Saguenay River situated between the high cliffs of the Laurentian Mountains.
A large figure emerges from the depths and everyone onboard once again rushes to the side of the boat.
“It’s a humpback whale!” the naturalist on board announces, originally in French and then in English.
Overwhelmed with excitement I swivel to get a shot, but without time to steady myself on the unbalanced zodiac all I manage to capture is a blurry photo of a fin. The whale descends back into the depths of the fjord.
“These whale’s usually take 10-15 minutes to resurface, so we’ll stay here and keep watching!”
I position my camera sturdily against the side of the boat and adjust my focus. Until then, we wait.
The waters that we’re waiting in are part of the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park, a protected area of 1,245 square kilometres home to over 2200 species. Split into three sections (the lower estuary, upper estuary and the Saguenay Fjord where we are now), the wide expanses of the marine park play host to 13 different species of whale.
Humpback whales, like the one we saw, are one of the species of whales that commonly frequent these waters during the summer. Threatened in the 1980s, this particular population has made a remarkable recovery and is no longer at risk. It’s remarkable to see their size and poise in person.
A spout of water erupts from the waters near the cliffs followed ever so slightly by a loud whooshing noise marking the return of the humpback whale. I refocus my camera. This time I’m prepared. I snap a shot of the whale’s dorsal fin with the backdrop of the high cliff walls and watch as the whale continues its descent into the waters below, gone for another 10-15 minutes at least. I check my camera’s display to see whether I got a clear shot of the whale. A smile stretches across my face. I'm thrilled with the result! We continue deeper into the fjord in search of other species.
Blue whales, minke whales, fin whales, harbour porpoises, seals, and St. Lawrence belugas are the most common species found in the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park. The best time to see them is in the summer months when they come into the estuary to enjoy the exceptional feeding opportunities.
Luck isn’t on our side and we don’t see any other whales in the fjord. Regardless, we’re thoroughly enjoying the views of the high cliffs surrounding the narrow black waters of the Saguenay River. We keep our eyes focused on the water, scanning for any sign of movement as the boat turns around to head back towards the estuary.
At the confluence of the fjord and the St. Lawrence River we once again see a shape form near the cliffs to the south.
“That could be a fin whale!” the naturalist informs us with excitement.
We stare and watch from afar as it breaches and descends over and over.
In the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park strict measures are in place to ensure both the integrity of the ecosystem and the safety of whales. All boaters must maintain a minimum distance of 200 metres from all species of whales and 400 metres from endangered species including blue whales and St. Lawrence belugas.
Maintaining our distance we watch for a few minutes as the whale surfaces and dives over and over. Fin whales are known to have a shorter dive time compared to humpback whales. It puts on a show for us as our boat tour wraps up and we return to the Tadoussac docks.
Amazed by the incredulous display of the whales we saw, the only slight disappointment resides in the fact that we didn’t get to see the famed St. Lawrence belugas. Speaking to a naturalist after the tour, we’re told to go to Baie Sainte-Marguerite if we want a good chance to see belugas.
Here, large herds of belugas are seen almost daily. The conditions are perfect. Unconsolidated bottoms, higher water temperatures, brackish water and shallow depths draw huge numbers of belugas into the bay during the summer months. If we want to see them, this is the place to go.
Without hesitation we get in the car. It’s only a short drive and hike until we’re back by the water.
The belugas found in the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park are members of the southernmost population of belugas found on earth. Isolated from all other herds of belugas that reside in the waters of the Arctic Ocean and adjoining seas, they’re the only whale that lives in the park year-round.
We hike the smooth trail towards Baie Sainte-Marguerite with views of the fjord towering above the treeline. The park is beautiful. We pass through the forest, reaching a long sandy beach with breathtaking views of both the bay and the surrounding cliffs. Towards the end of the trail we find a path leading to rocks by the shore offering visitors the best chance to see herds of beluga whales in the bay.
We sit down on the rocks, pull out cameras and binoculars and scan the waters. On the rocks just behind us is a naturalist from GREMM. She launches a drone into the sky to scan the waters for belugas.
Baie Sainte-Marguerite is one of three sites where GREMM researchers use aerial photography and cinematography to collect data on St. Lawrence belugas as part of the Windows on Belugas project.
Led by GREMM, Marine Mammal Observation Network (MMON) and Ocean Wise in a collaborative partnership with Sépaq, Parks Canada and Wolastoqiyik Wahsipekuk First Nation, the Windows on Belugas project aims to create educational opportunities and a better understanding of belugas through the use of drones and imagery.
Using drones, researchers can determine measurements of individual whales using a method to assess their health. They record the number of calves, bleuvets (up to 2-years-old), juveniles and adults. Drones can even help researchers record behaviours and identify specific individuals within the herd.
For hours we lay on the rocks watching the herd of belugas playfully breach the surface, socialize and spout water above them. It’s truly an awe-inspiring spectacle. Camouflaging in the whitecaps of the waves in the bay, they come and go throughout the day. An indescribable level of respect and admiration for these whales overwhelms us. Their intelligence, playfulness, and sociability are evident in the way they interact with one another.
The beluga whales found in the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park are numbered at around 900 individuals, a population that’s been in decline even following the hunting ban brought into effect in 1979. Over the next 20-years the population showed no signs of recovery. Protecting beluga whales and promoting their recovery was the main inspiration for the establishment of the park in 1998. Unfortunately, since the early 2000s their numbers have been declining by approximately one per cent per year. Abnormally high newborn mortality rate amongst the St. Lawrence belugas has had a significant effect on their numbers in the last decade.
Both the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park and the GREMM research team play vital roles in protecting the remaining belugas. All forms of boating in Baie Sainte-Marguerite are restricted during the summer months so that the belugas can feed, socialize and raise their calves with minimal disturbance. It also provides ample opportunity for research and to educate the public on the importance of protecting this fragile and unique ecosystem.
The sun begins to set over the fjord walls as we sit on the rocks looking out over the bay. The belugas are no longer active so we head towards the car. We’ve been privileged to witness the incredible spectacle of marine life in the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park, an experience we’re both exceptionally grateful for.
On our way home the next day we stand on the viewing deck of the ferry to catch one last glimpse of the fjord. Looking out at clouds mystifying the tops of the Laurentian mountains in mist, I begin to reflect on our experience.
Our role as recreational users of fragile ecosystems comes with responsibilities. How we use them, advocate for them and share what we learn in support of experts working to protect them can make a difference. For one, we can all make sure to follow the rules and regulations in protected areas. If we have the means, we can financially support the research being done to protect these wild spaces. We can share our stories and ethically-captured images from experiences interacting with wildlife in ways that demonstrate our respect for them and inspire empathy, caring, protection and promote education.
The sun begins to peak out of the clouds and shine down on the waters below as we watch a lone beluga whale swim through the surface, up and down, from one side of the fjord to the other.
Upon researching this article I learned that noise and disturbances associated with whale watching tours can potentially have an effect on the recovery of the St. Lawrence beluga population. It made me deeply question the way that I interact with wildlife and wild places. Going forward, I plan to always thoroughly research excursions into wild places and the potential effects that those excursions can have on wildlife. The privilege I have to enjoy these places should not come at the detriment of the animals that live there. I wonder if in my lifetime we’ll reach a point where it’s necessary to only allow researchers to access wild places in the betterment of the ecosystem and wildlife. If that ever becomes the case, images that inspire hope, caring and empathy will be that much more important.
A collection of resources to educate yourself on GREMM research, the Saguenay - St. Lawrence Marine Park, and the St. Lawrence population of beluga whales:
https://baleinesendirect.org/en/discover/the-species-of-the-st-lawrence/the-13-species/beluga/
https://baleinesendirect.org/en/survoler-les-belugas-pour-mieux-simmerger-dans-leur-univers/
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